Before we delve into my highly subjective thoughts on the best place to lay your head in the very touristy town of Hoi An in East Central Vietnam, it’s probably important to know what to look for, what to avoid and what you really want.
A lot of group tours will tell you they are taking you to a resort hotel in Hoi An when they are doing nothing of the kind. You might actually be going to a big resort hotel on the beach – the nearest, the Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort, being a 15-minute bus ride away, the farthest, Renaissance Hoi An, another five minutes away.
Now, this will be fine is what you are looking for is a beach resort hotel with a bit of culture not too far away, as Hoi An has the latter in spades. However, if you are not a beachy person and you don’t want to occasionally have to re-enact the siege of Sevastopol with Russian tourists (of whom there are many) who have been known to claim and ferociously defend most of the sun-loungers, you might want to pick a tour that billets you closer to town.
It is important to know that during daylight hours, Hoi An is absolutely teeming with tourists. This is OK because the town is closed to all traffic during the day, leaving the streets clear of scooters and cars.
The ‘must sees’ genuinely worth seeing
However, it’s also at this time when the buses from the aforementioned hotels, as well as en route to and from Hue, arrive and disgorge their passengers to swarm lemming-like to the “must see” spots like the Japanese Bridge, the Museum of Ceramics, the historic family houses and temples, and the lively local market.
To be fair, these are worth seeing, regardless of whether or not you are being led around by a small person of infinite patience holding aloft a tiny flag or a colourful umbrella.
There are a lot of hotels right in the heart of Hoi An, but there is also a lively nightlife scene that you might well enjoy (see hand-knitted video below) or that you may well also want to escape by not staying right on top of it.
For an experience somewhere in between the beach and the bars there is a plethora of spa and wellness resorts (especially along the river and generally away from the crowds, although most of the big ones claiming to cure whatever ails you are on the beach).
Pretty much every variation of physical, spiritual and dietary need is catered for. I note for no particular reason the Yen Macrobiotic and Vegan Homestay.
Hoi An’s best-kept secret
So, getting back to my favourite boutique hotel in Hoi An, which is (drum roll) Little Residence. Firstly, it is very near – while not actually in – the town; however, literally a 10-minute stroll will get you to the Japanese Bridge.
Secondly, it was perfect for our (separate) needs when Kieran and I visited many years ago – with large rooms, balconies and retro styling. And, since then, it has clearly undergone a major upgrade.
In fact, it took me a while to track it down because it has changed its name from La Residencia to Little Residence. The indoor pool is still there (great if you want to escape the humidity outside) the restaurant, bar and spa treatment rooms all look like they have had a bit of a sprucing up, and the rooms themselves are extravagantly spacious.
But is it still good? Tripadvisor rates it No 9 out of 418 hotels in Hoi An with an overall rating of 5 (out of 5) from 3411 reviews. At rates ranging from $113 a night (right now), that has to be good value.
One review posted just yesterday said this:
A must stay! We were looking for a comfortable long-stay housing situation and this place became a second home for us. The room was beautiful, clean, and had everything we needed. The staff was beyond amazing. The location was perfect for us – so close to Old Town without having to stay in all the noise and busyness. Found everything I needed close by (from tea to food, laundry to groceries). Can’t recommend this place enough! TIP: This is an ideal stay if you want to have a luxe (but still affordable) experience. Has location, amenities, beauty and service you want.
While a Canadian woman wrote:
Excellent service; comfortable rooms; reasonably priced; very easy access to the old town of Hoi An. Very helpful front desk staff to assist in booking excursions/tickets etc. Plentiful breakfasts to start the day and good restaurant staples to ride the hungry over late evening. We will definitely be back. TIP: Walk to the old town, market and shops in the morning before it gets too muggy. Excellent silk shops and the market is a must-see.
All of which makes me think it’s time I got back there … before this review and others pushes prices up.
Check it out – if your kind of boutique hotel is not on the beach, nor right in the town nor in the middle of a rice paddy, and has old-world charm but modern facilities, this could be the place for you, too.
