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The St. Regis Langkawi, Malaysia

Michael G Browne
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The St. Regis Langkawi, Malaysia

THE DEAL: Stay five nights from A$1,819/room, valued up to A$2,698 a saving of 33%.

THE APPEAL: Experience the epitome of island luxury at The St. Regis Langkawi, a five-star oasis nestled on the island’s southern tip.

Discover the island’s rich heritage and breathtaking natural beauty, from the enchanting centuries-old rainforest to the shimmering waters of the secluded Tanjung Rhu Beach.

Indulge in Pan-Asian cuisine at Kayuputi restaurant, perfectly perched above the water with views of the surrounding islands or enjoy a refreshing cocktail at The St. Regis Bar, a regal establishment with a grand Swarovski-designed green emerald chandelier in the centre of the room, or take the expert advice of the talented connoisseurs in the Decanter wine bar.

The hotel’s proximity to Kuah Town guarantees an unforgettable Malaysian escape, with the night markets showcasing the vast selection of local street-style foods.

Take a trip to the Langkawi Sky Bridge to witness the island’s best views stretching from the lush rainforest to the crystal-clear sea.

After a day of exploration, return to the comforts of the resort and retreat to your elegant room or suite to lounge in the plush bedding and unwind in the tranquil atmosphere.

For all the details and the deals from Luxury Escapes CLICK HERE or call them on 1300 889900

Japan’s cherry blossom time has sweet deals for solo travellers

Michael G Browne
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Japan’s cherry blossom time has sweet deals for solo travellers

It would be dereliction of Mildrover’s duty if we didn’t continue banging on about how popular Japan is at the moment. Tokyo is the number one destination this summer (according to an Expedia survey), eight out of the top 10 international destinations Aussies search most on Airbnb are in Japan, it’s in the zeitgeist, it’s the place to be; it’s the vibe. If there’s any place on the planet you can justifiably have FOMO about, it’s Japan.

Now solo travellers (can we still call you singletons?) can circle Japan aboard a luxurious, boutique ship in 2024 and save almost half the normal solo fare, thanks to a special package released by Australian small ship cruise specialist, Cruise Traveller, to cater for this mounting demand from Australians for holidays to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’.

Cruise Traveller, which specialises in discounted cruise packages for solo travellers, is offering savings of A$9265 for solo sailors as well as two free nights in Tokyo pre-cruise for bookings made on the 17-night package before January 31, 2023. There are also considerable savings for couples or friends sharing a cabin. Two departure dates are available – March 17, 2024, and April 1, 2024.

Timed to coincide with the best time in the northern spring to relish the soft pink splendour of Japan’s famously spectacular blossom trees, Cruise Traveller’s ‘Japan Jubilation’ package also showcases Japan’s exotic and alluring mix of ancient traditions and high-tech sophistication, which are drawing more Australian than ever to Japan.

The package features a 15-night voyage aboard the elegant and spacious, 690-guest Azamara Journey, which boasts a pool, two jacuzzis, six restaurants and cafes, an elegant drawing room, martini bar, cabaret lounge, spectacular observation lounge, spa sanctuary and gym.

The holiday begins with a free, two-night stay in Tokyo to experience the bustling excitement of the world’s most populous city with its grand, imperial palaces and temples and the shopping, entertainment and neon mecca of Ginza. Guests then board Azamara Journey for a round-trip cruise from Tokyo that showcases Japan’s rich traditions, colourful customs, lush gardens, futuristic cities and lavish temples, shrines and palaces.

The 15-night voyage circles Japan’s main island of Honshu, taking in 10 destinations around the country as well as the South Korean city of Busan. Destinations in Japan include the cherry blossom gardens of Niigata, the hot springs and shrines of Kobe, the famous re-risen World War 2 atomic bomb city of Hiroshima, the ornate gardens of Kanazawa the sake breweries of Akita, the preserved geisha houses of Kanazawa, and the city of Sakaiminato, famous for the 100 bronze statues of supernatural characters spread across the city centre. Included in the cruise is a complimentary AzAmazing Evening experience ashore designed to connect guests with the heart of local culture.

For all the details, full itinerary, pricing options and special deals, call Cruise Traveller, on 1800 507 777 or CLICK HERE


Eleven heavenly pubs to savour in Queensland’s Scenic Rim

Michael G Browne
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Eleven heavenly pubs to savour in Queensland’s Scenic Rim

The first time I stumbled across the Scenic Rim was when my mate, Mad Mick and I decided to take the inland way back to NSW from the Woodford Folk Festival. It was my turn to drive but I appreciated the scenery just fine as I didn’t have the stress of Mick text messaging and making phone calls while he drove to stay awake.

Once in the passenger seat, he slept all the way through. I could have woken him up if I’d done my research and enjoyed one or all of these pubs. Next time.

If you’d like to sip the Shazza, the Digga, Fat Man, Giddy Gout or the highly recommended PharQue beer, head to the Scenic Rim Brewery, if it’s gastro menus and signature dishes from an acclaimed chef, then you’ll need The Roadvale Hotel, and if you’re a Palmy fan, drive directly to The Canungra Hotel and order the ‘Parmegedon’. These are just two of the 11 classic Queenslander pubs that call the Scenic Rim home, just an hour’s drive from Brisbane and the Goldie (and there’s plenty of places to lay your hat if you need!). 

The Roadvale Hotel – the region’s first gastro-pub

A country hotel at its best – The Roadvale Hotel has reopened after new owners Milly and Andrew renovated, and threw their love behind this great gal! The classic front bar welcomes you, then take a walk out the back (check the cocktail bar, gorgeous old school champagne glasses, wooden floors and fireplaces), to the dog-friendly beer garden. In news that has attracted foodies from all over, the hotel is home to acclaimed chef and local flavours champion, Dan Groneberg and is officially the Scenic Rim’s first gastro-pub!

Address: 320 Roadvale Road, Roadvale QLD 4309

Website HERE:

Scenic Rim Brewery – boutique beers and pretzels!

This boutique, family-owned brewery packs a big flavour punch. Based in the picturesque town of Mount Alford, just past Boonah, owners Mike and Wendy brew a superb range of beers, all of which have names to make you smile – there’s the Shazza, Digga’s, Fat Man, Giddy Gout and the PharQue. The Ginger Extra Dry is worth the drive alone. The menu is a nod to Wendy’s Dutch heritage – the mouth-watering bitterballen (Dutch meatballs), perfect giant pretzels (that are guaranteed to make you thirsty) and a range of European gourmet hotdogs as well as great coffee, cake and daily specials. 

Address: 898 Reckumpilla Street, Mount Alford QLD 4310

Website HERE: 

The Canungra Hotel – palmy dreams are made of this

Parmy lovers, hold onto your forks, we’ve found your dream pub! With over 10 different parmy toppings ranging from the “Parmegedon” to the “Rainbow”, The Canungra Hotel is not about to let your (parmy) dreams pass you by.  Sitting in gorgeous Canungra at the base of Mt Tamborine and right on the Scenic Rim Wine Trail, this pub is well worth the drive – and the perfect place to sit and sip after a hike.

Address: 18 Kidston St, Canungra QLD 4275

Website HERE

The Dugandan Hotel – cold beers since 1886

The Dugandan Hotel, or “The Dugie” as it is affectionately known, is the quintessential Australian country pub. 

Just five minutes outside Boonah, and looking over a cricket field and up to Mt French, The Dugie serves up traditional pub fare, hearty country classics, and icy cold beers and wines. The beer garden deck out the back and the outdoor area under the huge trees are gorgeous. 

Address: Cnr Mt French and Boonah Rathdowney Roads, Dugandan

Website HERE 

Fortitude Brewing, Mt Tamborine – the ultimate mountain hoppiness!

A trip to Fortitude Brewing Company will make you giddier than a little kid with a tamborine.  At home at the end of the Gallery Walk at Mt Tamborine, Fortitude Brewing is famous for its gourmet pizzas, cheese platters and beer tasting paddles, the perfect way to start or finish a daytrip or staycay.

Address: 165 Long Rd, Tamborine Mountain QLD 4271

Website HERE 

The Royal Hotel, Harrisville – a living history 

The Royal Hotel Harrisville began life in 1875 named the Harrisville Inn. It was destroyed by fire in 1916 and rebuilt. It is a gorgeous country Queensland pub, serving authentic country meals. The beer garden overlooks a delightful creek with views of the Great Dividing Range and a free camping area for overnight stays. Just 30 mins west of Ipswich in the Scenic Rim, there’s lots of stories about the resident ghost of the hotel, but you will have to ask the publican for more on that!

Address: 1 Wholey Dr, Harrisville QLD 4307

Website HERE 

The ‘Rathy’ – home on the range 

The “Rathy Pub” has been a central feature in the Rathdowney township since the 1900s as they serve up the heartiest country meals seven days a week in this historic country village.  With gorgeous views over the range, a flavour-filled menu and great bar area, it’s the perfect spot for a family outing, a bike ride or a couples visit. 

Address: 4287/73 Collins St, Rathdowney QLD 4287

Website HERE 

The Bearded Dragon Tavern – Tamborine dreams 

Set on 110 picturesque acres with sweeping views across The Ferndale Stud Farm at Tamborine, The Bearded Dragon Tavern has been serving up a true-blue Aussie experience for over 20 years. With 15 local and imported beers on tap, classic pub meals and views to wow your socks off; this pub is a great weekend dining spot.

Address: 2-22 Tamborine Mountain Rd, Tamborine QLD 4270

Website HERE 

The Australian Hotel, Boonah – yesteryear cheer

Another traditional country pub, The Australian was built in 1888 and is a favourite of locals and visitors alike. Here’s a tip – pub lunches start from $9.90, so it’s the perfect spot to pop in on a day trip or longer stay. 

Address: 32 High St, Boonah QLD 4310

Website HERE

The Royal Hotel, Kalbar – no crowns required

If you haven’t been to the foodie haven that is Kalbar, just an hour from Brisbane, then choose a day and lock it in. This gorgeous country town is home to quite a few ‘must visit’ foodie establishments and fresh produce provedores, with The Royal Hotel leading the charge.  Be sure to book ahead for this friendly country pub, which offers plenty of seating on the large deck and in the grounds. The menu features great steaks, local vegetables and pizza, as well as a broad range of café-style food.

Address: Corner George and Edward St Kalbar,

Website HERE 

The Beaudesert Hotel – Beauy’s best

One of Beaudesert’s most historic and established dining venues, The Beaudesert Hotel, known as The Beauy, underwent an extensive renovation in 2015, and is now modern and cool inside, while keeping it’s classic country pub status. The Hotel also offers accommodation, a 150-seat dining room, great bar areas, a gaming room with 24 of some of the most recent gaming machines and a courtesy bus service.

Address: 80 Brisbane Street, Beaudesert 4285 Queensland

Website HERE

Cheat the heat with a trip to Japan – skis optional

Michael G Browne
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Cheat the heat with a trip to Japan – skis optional

As we stare down the barrel of another summer that may feature bushfires, 40 degree days, floods and everything in between, a cool change to the land of the rising sun is a tempting thought. Winter in Japan is a magnificent season, with its snow-covered landscapes, delicious culinary specialties and sublime festivals.

Often less touristy, it’s actually one of the most pleasant seasons to visit Japan. This winter, Japan Experience is introducing you to Japan’s mountains and ski resorts. And for the less sporty among you, discover winter in Japan with their top travel tips for this magical season that brings the year to a close.

If Japan isn’t already on your list of skiing destinations, it may well will be by the end of this. With a geography characterized by thousands of mountains and volcanoes, almost three-quarters of Japan’s territory is mountainous. When winter wraps Japan in its white cloak every year, many parts of the country become snowy paradises for powder snow lovers. I’ll let Travel Japan take you from here to show you the best Japanese ski resorts to enjoy winter sports under the Nippon sun!

Close to Tokyo

Thanks to its relative proximity to the Japanese Alps mountain range, Tokyo has ski resorts that have nothing to envy our European resorts, even if some are less than two hours from the Japanese capital!

In Nagano prefecture, Hakuba is perhaps one of Japan’s best-known ski areas. Around four hours from Tokyo, this mountain town is proud to have hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. You’ll find a choice of over a dozen ski resorts!

The Yuzawa region in Niigata prefecture is also a popular destination for skiers. It’s also one of the closest selections of ski resorts to Tokyo, accessible in around 2 hours!

Back in Nagano prefecture, in the heart of the Japanese Alps, Shiga Kogen is another popular region for its 21 ski resorts, a paradise for ski and snowboard enthusiasts, with a unique variety of slopes.

Just two hours from Tokyo, Mount Naeba and its ski slopes perched high up in Niigata prefecture can even be a day trip from the Japanese capital, for a skiing getaway.

For those more interested in the setting than the quality of the slopes, it’s hard to beat the nearby Fujiten Ski Resort, or Fujiyama Snow Resort Yeti.

As their name suggests, these resorts are located at the foot of Mount Fuji, offering breathtaking views of this timeless symbol of Japan.

North of Japan

Moving away from Tokyo, the north of the main island of Honshu and especially the island of Hokkaido boast some of the best ski resorts in the world, with more powder – at the price of much colder temperatures.

Niseko, in Hokkaido, is surely Japan’s best-known ski region. The epicenter of Japanese skiing – Niseko has been dubbed “the powder capital of the world”, no less. Approximately two hours from Sapporo, this huge resort boasts slopes for all levels and a variety of winter sports, as well as off-piste.

With more snow and fewer people, Rusutsu is a great alternative to Niseko. Just 30 min from Niseko, Rusutsu can also be a day trip for a change of scene!

Close to Sapporo, Teine is the largest ski resort on the outskirts of Hokkaido’s capital. Used during the 1972 Winter Olympics, this resort is pleasant for all levels and easily accessible!

In the Tohoku region, and more precisely in Iwate prefecture, Appi Kogen boasts 21 different ski resorts, easily accessible and appreciated by locals and international tourists alike.

Known for its famous “snow monsters”, a fascinating natural phenomenon, Zao resort is another must-see in the Tohoku region. These snow monsters are illuminated at night in some places, and some slopes are usable at night!

For a tailor-made winter escape and more ideas (like spa-resorts for the less sporty rover) explore Japan Experience’s options by CLICKING HERE or to book a 14 day self-guided ski tour starting early January, CLICK HERE.

Cruise England to Rome with eleven ports in twelve days

Michael G Browne
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Cruise England to Rome with eleven ports in twelve days

This is in no way a criticism of the cruise or the excellent Luxury Escapes but the first paragraph you’ll see if you follow the link to their site is… strange. I’ll be kind and say it looks like it was written with early AI suffering from a virtual migraine. Anyhow, the cruise itself is well worth a look for us rovers who like to unpack only once per holiday.

For a start, Norwegian Prima is one of Norwegian Cruise Lines new ship. I think every cruise I’ve ever taken had a Norwegian captain so I take that as a very good sign. Then there are the ports, which hit the spot for all you could wish for.

Setting sail from Southampton, the first stop is in the Bay of Biscay at the French port of Le Verdon, then the top of Spain to Bilboa, La Caruna then the Portugese Port of Porto (Oporto).

For a scenic view of Oporto, the 12th-century Cathedral has a long stone balcony overlooking the river and city below. The city is renowned for its port wine and the city of Oporto makes a wonderful backdrop for savouring a glass of its fine liquor.

Then it’s a trip down the coast to Lisbon with its cobbled alleys of the Alfama district to the broad Parisian style avenues at its heart. Belem’s Monument to the Discoveries recalls the seafaring past.

Cadiz (Seville) Spain was founded by Phoenicians in 1100 B.C., and may be the oldest continuously occupied city in the West. The Cathedral’s gold dome dates from 1722 and its altar is decorated with 4,000 pounds of gold from the Americas! There are also the Moorish marvels of Seville: the Alcazar and Giralda Tower and the fountains and palaces of Maria Luisa Park.

Cartagena, Spain is also Spain’s main naval base. The landscaped squares of Cartagena are so magnificent that you can spend hours just sitting and looking, then it’s on the Catalan city of Barcelona, Spain. Stroll down the shady, tree-lined Ramblas between street musicians and elegant bistros. Then perhaps visit the venerable Gothic cathedral, Picasso Museum or enjoy the architectural genius of Antonio Gaudi’s Church of the Holy Family.

Then you can channel your inner movie producer with a visit to Cannes before Livorno, Italy, which leads through the rolling green hills of Tuscany to Florence, the flower of the Renaissance. The creative explosion happened right here, with masterworks by Michelangelo, Brunelleschi and Botticelli now landmarks of daily life.

Finally, its Rome, The Eternal City, via the port of Civitavecchia. If you are a male rover, you may already think about the Roman Empire everyday, (it’s a TikTok trend and not meant to be taken seriously – I think). You will want to see it all: the soaring inspiration of St. Peter’s, the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel; the flow of life along the Spanish Steps, the Coliseum, the Via Veneto and Trevi Fountain. Be sure to leave time for la dolce vita in one of the piazzas.

Summing up, your journey takes you to: Le Verdon – Bilboa – La Coruna – Porto (Oporto) – Lisbon – Cadiz – Cartagena – Barcelona – Cannes – Livorno – Civitavecchia –

Prices start from A$3,861/person, twin share and for all pricing and details (and that first paragraph) from Luxury Escapes, CLICK HERE (if only to read the weird intro) or call 1300 820 853

Japan gourmet small-group tour with multi-course dining

Michael G Browne
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Japan gourmet small-group tour with multi-course dining

I often marvel at how beautifully prepared and presented is the food is at my local Japanese restaurant. Even the tiniest salad seems to possess special powers of flavour and aesthetics.

How a square of silken bean curd can be transformed into Agedashi Tofu is one of the culinary wonders of the world. I’ve tried and it was a disaster.

So I can only dream of how amazing high-end Japanese cuisine must be in Japan itself and here’s a Luxury Escapes tour that can make your dreams come true.

Complex flavours and sumptuous dining await on this small-group gourmet tour of Japan’s culinary capitals (max. 20 travellers). Sip sake from a centuries-old recipe at a historic brewery in Kobe and savour the buttery tender texture of Kobe beef.

From Kobe Harborland to Tokyo’s bustling Tsukiji Outer Market, Japan’s spectacular seafood is a point of pride. Local specialties like rich Nagoya-style grilled eel and moreish Osakan takoyaki tell a story about the fishing tradition in Japan.

From the sweeping vistas of Mount Fuji to the waterfront views of its harbour cities, the freshness and flavour found in every dish are a testament to the exquisite quality of Japan’s coastal cuisines.

The culinary craftsmanship doesn’t stop at seafood. Uji green tea offers creamy calm in a cup, while the elaborate configuration of dishes in kaiseki ryori invite presence and consideration with every bite.

Kobe may be widely known for its deeply marbled and tender beef, but the city is also home to some of Japan’s oldest sake breweries, where you can taste centuries of recipe development with a single sip.

Try your hand at kneading and rolling chewy udon noodles under the tutelage of Takamatsu’s masters and eat as the wrestlers do with a spectacular chanko nabe or ‘sumo stew’ hot pot.

Even experience the meticulous flavours and masterful curation of a traditional multi-course kaiseki ryori as you watch a mesmerising geisha performance.

Travel comfortably with included airport transfers and private coach transport throughout your trip, and let your expert English-speaking guide uncover the rich history of Japan’s magnificent temples and imposing castles.

Visit the profoundly moving Atomic Bomb Dome and reflect on the impacts of war as you walk through Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.

Make your pilgrimage to Fushimi Inari Shrine, through innumerable vermilion torii gates, then marvel at the slopes of Mount Fuji.

Toast your journey with a welcome bottle of sake and bring a piece of Japanese culture home in the form of a beautifully crafted sake set.

For all the details and pricing for this 11 day, 10 night tour from Luxury Escapes, CLICK HERE

Heritage escape, Hydro Majestic Hotel Blue Mountains

Michael G Browne
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Heritage escape, Hydro Majestic Hotel Blue Mountains

THE DEAL: Escape for two nights from A$499/room, valued up to A$1,392 a saving of up to 64%

THE APPEAL: Immerse yourself in Art Deco-inspired luxury, chef-hatted dining and heritage design with an unforgettable stay at the historic The Hydro Majestic Hotel.

It’s a spectacular retreat set in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains, a short drive from the Three Sisters at Echo Point and the Scenic Skyway cablecar.

A local institution, this iconic Art Deco property has been operating since 1904 and attracted many a famous guest, including Australia’s first Prime Minister Sir Edmund Barton and Sherlock Holmes creator, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Experience this slice of history with a grand heritage stay with grander inclusions, including a legendary high tea at chef-hatted restaurant, The Wintergarden.

Learn about the estate and magnate founder Mark Foy’s illustrious heritage on an intimate tour of the grounds, from the century-old Casino Lobby and its iconic domed roof to the Majestic Ballroom.

Plus, with a perfect position in the historic town of Medlow Bath — just over 90 minutes by car from Sydney — you’re surrounded by the spectacular scenery of the Blue Mountains, making it the perfect romantic weekend escape.

For all the details and pricing from Luxury Escapes CLICK HERE

Myths and Legends of Soul Alley, Saigon

Jimmy Thomson
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Myths and Legends of Soul Alley, Saigon

Having written two books about Australian army engineers (sappers) in the Vietnam War and having visited the country a dozen times as both a tourist and a tour guide, I am always on the alert for anything that taps into those two areas of interest.

Over the years I had heard rumours about an area called Soul Alley  – a legendary, almost mythical zone that was a home from home for African-American soldiers and a no-go zone for white GIs. 

A few years ago I started noticing requests in Tripadvisor for information about the precise location of Soul Alley. Most of the info provided was vague and/or well off the mark.

That led me to do my own research and that in turn led to me featuring Soul Alley in my crime novel Mole Creek (written under the name James Dunbar), as I explain in this feature that I wrote for the Australian Financial Review and which was published in July this year (2023).

Soul food and soul music in Saigon’s no-go zone

Blame it on the fog of war, or the mists of time, but there are tales from our military history that remain in the shadows.

When it comes to war stories, some secrets are carefully protected while others are quietly forgotten.  These are the rumours that have stopped being spread, the whispers that have simply fallen silent.

Take the legend of a black-only area called Soul Alley in wartime Saigon, a veritable den of iniquity that provides a backdrop for a couple of critical plot points in my new crime/spy thriller Mole Creek.

Look it up on all-knowing artificial intelligence platform Chat-GPT and you got nothing (until tricky AI plundered this article).

I first heard rumours about Soul Alley when I was researching my two non-fiction books on the Vietnam War – Tunnel Rats and A Sapper’s War. Frequently, I’d pick up references to this semi-mythical African-American area but could never find anyone who had been there.

Casual references would pop up on American veterans’ websites and it became clear that Soul Alley was very real; a cluster of narrow streets and typically twisting alleyways less than 2km from the US Army base at what is now the international airport.

However, hard facts were thin on the ground. After all, it was the kind of place you wouldn’t boast about having frequented. I finally struck gold when I discovered a 2018 website report about efforts to make a documentary film.

Entitled “For black GIs in Saigon, ‘Soul Alley’ was an oasis of food and vice”, the article describes how the film makers kept coming up against the same passive secrecy.

“These vets would look at me like, ‘How do you even know about that?’” film maker Ted Irving said. “It’s something they keep to themselves.” 

Part of this forgotten aspect of the Vietnam War was the racial tension within the American forces that occasionally led to riots in US army camps and near mutinies at sea.

Throughout the same period when the country was sending young men to fight in South-East Asia, the civil rights movement was growing in power and intensity in the USA.

When its leader Martin Luther King was assassinated on April 4, 1968, the Vietnam War was at its height.  Only two weeks earlier, 500 Vietnamese civilians had been murdered in the My Lai massacre and the battle of Khe San was in full swing.

It was probably inevitable that racial tensions would simmer and occasionally boil over. In August 1968, hundreds of black prisoners overwhelmed prison guards at Long Binh Jail, a military facility just outside Saigon, where they captured the stockade commander and set buildings on fire.

Later that year, according to the New York Times, there were reports of large-scale battles between black and white soldiers in service clubs, while racial incidents occurred at the China Beach recreation area and in Danang clubs and dining halls on an almost daily basis.

In October, 1972 there was a race riot on the USS Kitty Hawk, with similar incidents on other Navy ships.

In Tunnel Rats, Australian sappers reported that many black American troops preferred to socialise with them rather than their countrymen.

So one can see how Soul Alley would be a refuge for African-American troops from the racism, both casual and overt, of their white comrades in arms. 

There the bars played soul music and blues rather than pop and country, there was soul food such as collard greens, grits and fried chicken (prepared by Vietnamese cooks) and it was effectively a no-go area for whites, unless they were accompanied by a black comrade.

For a long time, military police wouldn’t venture there, partly for fear of starting a civil war among the US forces. With no laws but its own, it predictably became a hotspot for drug dealing, prostitution, gun running and money laundering, with many deserters finding a haven there.

This was confirmed in a hard-to-find Time magazine article from December 1970 which detailed a combined raid on the area by US MPs, Saigon city police and South Vietnamese Army troops.

That rare incursion was prompted by an assault on a Military Police Jeep that had strayed into the area. The two MPs escaped with their lives but not their vehicle or weapons. The subsequent raid captured 56 local women and 110 GIs, 30 of whom were deserters.

One year later, according to a contemporaneous TV news clip now on YouTube, Soul Alley was back in action.

Wartime Vietnam is just one part of Mole Creek, which is mostly set in modern-day Tasmania. But while Mole Creek is mostly fiction Soul Alley was 100 per cent fact..

Mole Creek (by Jimmy Thomson, writing as James Dunbar) is published by Echo Publishing

The night they raided Soul Alley, Saigon

Jimmy Thomson
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The night they raided Soul Alley, Saigon

Exactly 53 years ago this month a combined force of American and Vietnamese MPs and civilian police raided the “no-whites-allowed” area of Soul Alley in Saigon, a refuge for African American soldiers from the sometimes casual, often overt racism of their comrades-in-arms. A month earlier, a US Military Police Jeep had ventured in – its two occupants left without their guns and their vehicle, prompting the raid on this area that the US military authorities had conveniently chosen to ignore.

This is how Time Magazine reported the incident a few days later.

Time Magazine: Monday, Dec. 14, 1970

Just after the 1 a.m. curfew one day last week, 300 heavily armed American and Vietnamese MPs, civilian police and militiamen, supported by 100 armored cars, trucks and Jeeps, swooped down on a narrow dirt alley in Saigon and sealed it off.

As their house-to-house search began, G.I.s groggy with sleep and drugs scampered in every direction, a few over rooftops, trying to escape.

Their women followed, some stark naked, some wearing only pajama bottoms, as spotlights from two helicopters above played on the bizarre scene. When the roundup ended four hours later, 56 girls and 110 G.I.s, including 30 deserters, were hauled off into custody.

Known as Soul Alley, this 200-yd. back street is located just one mile from U.S. military headquarters for Viet Nam. At first glance, it is like any other Saigon alley: mama-sans peddle Winston cigarettes and Gillette Foam Shaves from pushcarts, and the bronzed, bony drivers of three-wheeled, cycles sip lukewarm beer at corner food stalls as children play tag near their feet.

A closer look, however, shows that Soul Alley is a very special place. The children being bounced on their mothers’ hips have unmistakably Afro-Asian features. A sign in the local barbershop proclaims: THE NATURAL LOOK HAS ARRIVED. Green Army fatigues hang from balcony railings to dry in the sun. Black G.I.s talk and laugh, their arms around slight young Asian girls.

No Whites Allowed.

Soul Alley is home for somewhere between 300 and 500 black AWOLS and deserters. They escape arrest by using forged ID cards and mixing with the even greater number of G.I.s who are still on active duty but prefer spending nights here, away from the drabness of their barracks.

There were roughly 65,000 cases of AWOL last year, and the Army estimates that about 1,000 soldiers will become deserters this year (no racial breakdowns are available).

Whites who venture into Soul Alley do so at their own risk, as two military policemen learned a month ago. Five minutes after they drove in at mid-morning in their Jeep, they walked back out—minus the vehicle and their weapons.

The Army has known about Soul Alley and its deserters ever since the haven sprang up three years ago, and MPs have frequently staged minor raids and roundups. The incident with the Jeep sparked the biggest raid yet. But even if the brass cleaned up Soul Alley, its residents, rather like the Viet Cong, would soon drift back or relocate in another, similar spot.

Easy Living.

For many Soul Alley AWOLS, the living is easy. Explained one: “You get up late, you smoke a few joints, you get on your Honda and ride around to the PX, buy a few items you can sell on the black market, come back, blow some more grass, and that’s it for the day.”

Rent for the second floor of a brick house rarely runs to more than $40 or $50 a month, including laundry and housekeeping services. Hustling is the name of the game here. This gives everyone plenty of money for anything from soul food at a restaurant called Nam’s to hi-fi equipment, television sets or even heroin. Here is how the system works:

From an army of papa-san forgers, the AWOL gets his phony ID and ration cards. He goes to the PX, buys an expensive item, such as a refrigerator, for as little as $71.50 in military payment certificates (MFCS). On the open market, he can sell it for $500 in MFCS. Markups on TV sets and stereo sets are almost as high.

Special Signal.

Despite such amenities, life in Soul Alley can be lonely and miserable. Many of the AWOLs would rather be back home, but cannot leave Viet Nam without facing arrest and court-martial. Some would like to stay in Soul Alley, or something like it, but wonder whether they can.

“I don’t want to go back to the States, and certainly not back to Houston, Texas,” said a black G.I. who is married to a Vietnamese. “They would call me a ‘nigger’ and my wife a ‘gook,’ and they would never leave us alone. But I can’t get a civilian job here when I get out of the service.”

Besides, many have found that they jumped from one form of racism into another, since Vietnamese often do not like dark-skinned people. Add to this the harassment by MPs, the sense of being without a country, and the day-today hassle to raise money, and the frustrations can grow unbearable.

One G.I. summed it up: “It ain’t the rules; it’s the man. Same as back in the world. A black man is the only one they grab for spitting on the streets. Over here if a bunch of brothers get together to blow some grass, right away the officers get uptight; in the next barracks over, white guys are doing the same thing, but nobody bothers them.

“The regs [Army Regulations] say you can grow your hair this long, but the first sergeant says he don’t care what the regs say, because he don’t like no black man with a ‘Fro.”

This sort of feeling has given rise to a special variation of the intricate signal that black soldiers in Viet Nam exchange when they meet. The standard greeting includes two taps on the chest —meaning “I will die for you.” In Soul Alley, some blacks add a swift downward motion of the hand—a stroke to kill.

Off Australia’s Southern shores in boutique luxury

Michael G Browne
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Off Australia’s Southern shores in boutique luxury

There’s some debate about the originator of the quote “It’s tough to make predictions, especially about the future.” I mention it because to make the most of this cruise, you need to decide now to sail this time next year. I have to admit, this is one that interests me greatly since seeing a David Attenborough doco on the fabulous wildlife on Australia’s Southern shores.

Not only that, the ship pops into some of the places that supply most of our top end gourmet restaurants, like Port Lincoln, King Island and the Tamar Valley (may I recommend the Pinot Noir?). I’ll let Cruise Traveller tease you from here.

What better way to cruise into Christmas in 2024 than a relaxed, luxury, all-inclusive voyage around the southern shores of Australia just before Santa arrives next year!  The two-week, live-it-up journey aboard one of Ponant’s newest boutique ships has been packaged by Australian small ship specialist, Cruise Traveller, with a bonus flight credit and extensive savings of A$10,810 per couple – and less than half the fare for solo travellers – for bookings made by December 31, 2023.

Cruise Traveller’s new, 13-night ‘Expedition on Southern Australian Shores’ package features an all-inclusive – and that means an open-bar for the whole cruise – ultra-luxe expedition cruise from Perth to Hobart aboard Ponant’s 184-guest exploration ship, Le Jacques Cartier.  Showcasing more remote and pristine destinations bigger ships can’t access, the voyage extends from December 10 to 23, 2024, providing an indulgent, carefree pathway into the festive season next year.

Launched in 2020 and named after a 16th Century French maritime explorer, Ponant’s sleek and stylish Le Jacques Cartier boasts a refined and intimate, French-styled elegance, fine dining restaurants, plush lounges, theatre, spectacular infinity pool, an expert expedition team and personalised service. All staterooms offer a private balcony or terrace.

Le Jacques Cartier will sail from Perth on December 10, 2024, charting a course to the wild seascapes of Albany and also Esperence with its chalk-white beaches, lapped by turquoise waters. Guests will also get the rare chance to experience the wild, seldom visited islands of the Recherche Archipelago off the WA coast with its rich seal and bird colonies. Also on the itinerary is the succulent seafood capital of Port Lincoln and the historic coastal town of Victor Harbour, followed by King Island and its famous cheeses, and Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, renowned for its fine, cool climate wines. The voyage ends in Hobart.

The voyage includes guided, complimentary excursions on Zodiacs and ashore. The cruise also includes the luxury of a daily open bar onboard Le Jacques Cartier. 

The 13-night cruise is available from A$12,550 per person, twin-share, in a Deluxe Balcony stateroom – a saving of A$5405 each. Solo travellers can enjoy even bigger savings, with the package available for the same fare in a Deluxe Balcony stateroom – a substantial saving of A$21,685, which is well below half the full fare (very limited in spaces – early bookings recommended, subject to availability).  There’s also a bonus A$400 per person flight credit to go towards connecting flights. The savings and bonus flight credit apply to bookings made with Cruise Traveller by December 31, 2023. 

To book, visit www.CruiseTraveller.com.au/sthshores (direct link) or call Cruise Traveller on 1800 507 777 or see www.cruisetraveller.com.au

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